So, you want to build a Code 3? Tips,tricks and tools

[ggvfr]

OK, I'm not an expert - far from it, but I picked up a few tips along the way building my Code 3 '78-'79 Tribute... and now I'm doing another Code 3.

A few people have asked about tools, how to etc... I've documented a strip down I started this afternoon, along with pics of some of the tools I use.

Bear with me on this journey - it may be common knowledge for some, but totally new to others. I guess I'm aiming at the latter.

Firstly - Tools...

http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/6294/toolsandti psve007jv3.jpg

Here's a selection of mine... one of the handiest is a pair of tweezers that work in "reverse" ie, you squeeze them to let things go...

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5364/toolsandti psve008sf0.jpg

Another is this "Dremel" type tool... This one cost me $19 at Bunnings (and yes, they still had them the other day I was there..) This one is cordless and rechargeable.

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8075/toolsandti psve027oj6.jpg

A 1/4" drive socket set is handy, I use it to hold a small screwdriver bit that can get inside the body shell to undo the door screws.

A freezer is handy too. A freezer you ask? Yep, put your model in there for 24hrs and it helps crystalise/weaken the glue.

I actually put my shell and bits back in after the first disassembly to try and further weaken the bonds.

Next post: Disassembly of a VE to the shell stage...

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

Next Stage: Stripping to the Shell...

On the VE there are 6 screws holding the shell to the "chassis" - 2 of them hidden under the side skirts...

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/8418/toolsandti psve001pn7.jpg

On the left side you can see the "hidden" screw, on the RHS the skirt is still in place. This is attached in 3 spots with glue/pegs. Slight leverage near the front wheel (between skirt and chassis) will pop this easily - after freezing of course...

Then I work towards the back wheel, gently... often the middle point will pop.

Here the two sides differ - the exhaust side may snap if you try going towards the back (due to the cutout for the pipes). I start at the rear wheel and gently try to wedge the piece off.

The non-exhaust side will come off either way.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7183/toolsandti psve002cg6.jpg

"Hidden" screw exposed...

The next two screws are up near the nose and are partially covered by the under tray of the front splitter...

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/931/toolsandtip sve003sm3.jpg

Next: Removing the splitter tray and nose cone...

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

Here is where some more gentle persuasion is required... gentle being the operative word..

Insert a small flat blade screwdriver into the space in front of the front wheel and lever the panel where the splitter tray meets the inner wheel well...

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/8708/toolsandti psve005sn6.jpg

The under tray (on the Collecables VE's) all seem to be glued only at the right hand side pin (at the lower suspension cross member) and around the front edge in a couple of spots...

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/3667/toolsandti psve006mr8.jpg

Under tray removed, "chassis" screws and brake "ducting" visible


Remove the brake ducting (actually metal springs) by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver in ath the duct inlet end and gently break the glue bond. The spring just pops off...
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1103/toolsandti psve009mv0.jpg

Remove 2 more screws hidden further up towards the front wheel and this allows the grille/nose to come away... gently

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/715/toolsandtip sve012pr8.jpg

Next: Rear Bar removal and Shell off

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

2 more screws are easy to find at the rear of the "chassis"...

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/7056/toolsandti psve014hf5.jpg

Undoing both of them will allow the seperation of the body shell

http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/7148/toolsandti psve016ev4.jpg

...but the rear bar is hooked over 2 posts and will fall out unless careful. At this stage lift it out. Then it should look like this...

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7020/toolsandti psve017uq4.jpg

Lift the body away (usually by pushing forward a little and ensuring that the "steering" linkage doesn't snag the wiring in the motor.

...and voila... you've always wondered how they did it on ebay - stripping and selling diorama parts...

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/1378/toolsandti psve019nl3.jpg

Next: Stripping the shell

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

The boot pod/fuel cell is just sitting there....

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1927/toolsandti psve020ug4.jpg

Just lift it away and the interior cage/driving compartment screws are exposed...

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/4831/toolsandti psve021ct4.jpg

Now the interior just lifts out complete...

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/546/toolsandtip sve022wa1.jpg

... a new class of racing?....

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3938/toolsandti psve023vo2.jpg

Next: Bonnet and Boot removal

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

With the interior/cage gone the screws/mechanisms for the bonnet and boot are exposed...

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/3493/toolsandti psve024iv1.jpg

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/797/toolsandtip sve025pz9.jpg

Remove all the screws and the mechanisms and take out the panels....

http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/3710/toolsandti psve026xm4.jpg

Next: The doors... no, not the music group...

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

This is where I found the socket set with screwdriver bit to be very handy to get into tight spots...

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2496/toolsandti psve028is7.jpg

Undo all 4 screws, and presto, open air motoring...

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/2747/toolsandti psve029vg2.jpg

Now I put everything back into the freezer before the tricky bits start...

Some of this has probably been basic for experienced Code 3ers but I hope it's helped others... I'm also open to any new techniques too....

Next time I'll post the bits where glued stuff is pulled apart.. and some of it is pretty delicate...

But at least now (after, for me, less than an hours work) you're halfway to this...

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/7372/newcode3star t002bi3.jpg

Cheers
Garry

[minh427]

Great tips, i might go buy one of those "dremel", have they caused any problems so far?

[ggvfr]

Great tips, i might go buy one of those "dremel", have they caused any problems so far?

No problems at all, it has a big variety of grinding bits that take the tits off easily and a variety of collets for fitting drill bits...

It's 10,000 rpm and came with (from memory) 60 or so attachments... Even if it only lasted a couple of Code 3's it's been very helpful (and cheap)

Cheers
Garry

[Andrew]

This is great. Is there any way it can be a Sticky thread? With so many Code 3's going on at the moment, this is sure to be a popular thread.

[Kashmir]

great idea for a thread mate,boy there are alot of parts to these models.

[brchi17]

This is great. Is there any way it can be a Sticky thread? With so many Code 3's going on at the moment, this is sure to be a popular thread.

great idea for a thread mate,boy there are alot of parts to these models.

Have you guys seen how many threads there are about them? If some were merged with relevant ones then I could see some merritt in this, but as there seems to be an endless number of them, where would you stop? There would be two pages plus of stickies before you actually got to the forum....

[HQGTS74]

Sorry, but what are sticky threads?:p:confused:
Chris

[minh427]

Sorry, but what are sticky threads?:p:confused:
Chris

Really important threads;)

[Andrew]

Have you guys seen how many threads there are about them? If some were merged with relevant ones then I could see some merritt in this, but as there seems to be an endless number of them, where would you stop? There would be two pages plus of stickies before you actually got to the forum....

I understand there have been so many Code 3 threads, but what sets this one apart is the step by step instruction. It's a guide as much as it is a build so I would argue is far more useful to new modders than other Code 3 threads. It was just a thought anyway! :)

[wayno]

Some people are sick of code 3 threads. They will not be 'stickys'.

[wayno]

Sorry, but what are sticky threads?:p:confused:
Chris

Like the ones that are made to always stay at the top of the forum. Like when the competitions were running.

[HDT337]

Thats why I sugested a short while ago, that there could be its own topic page, similar to "non related threads"

Personally, I enjoy reading and adding to the code 3 threads, there are a lot of tallented people among us.

HDT337


Some people are sick of code 3 threads. They will not be 'stickys'.

[minh427]

Why are people sick of code 3 threads? they show peoples creativity.

[brchi17]

Why are people sick of code 3 threads? they show peoples creativity.

isn't that like expecting an answer to why people hate Collingwood/Carlton, etc...:p ???

[wayno]

Why are people sick of code 3 threads? they show peoples creativity.

They do, but just because you're interested in something it doesn't mean everyone else is.

[ggvfr]

Some people are sick of code 3 threads. They will not be 'stickys'.

Maybe I should have taken a poll first, or is that just a personal opinion?

I thought modding and Code 3's were an acceptable pastime on this forum - the rally car thread being a good example...

I don't care if this is moved to an off-topic area but I think it is still relevant to collecting, creating and expressing individuality....

Just like the 'nit picking' carried out every time a new model is released... it's all about ideas and the expression thereof, everyone is entitled to post if it's valid in its contribution...

...or maybe we're just not supposed to desecrate "Carlectables" creations....

How about I just take my bat and ball.....???

No-one is twisting anyones arm to read it, I personally skip threads I'm not interested in...

[wayno]

Most have no problem with the code 3 threads, but the rally car guys have kept it to one thread remember.
There is also no problem with describing 'Carlectables' creations either.
Do what you feel you need to. I was just explaining why the thread will not be made a 'sticky'.

[ggvfr]

OK, before this degenerates to a slanging match... Personally, I'm happy not to be a sticky.. that came from elsewhere.

I'd just like to provide what help and information I can - given the requests on a number of Code 3 threads asking for exactly that...

Why not a seperate topic? Area?

Given the amount of cheap models appearing I'm sure there are going to be more...

Let's stop slinging and start creating...

Cheers
Garry

[Kashmir]

Have you guys seen how many threads there are about them? If some were merged with relevant ones then I could see some merritt in this, but as there seems to be an endless number of them, where would you stop? There would be two pages plus of stickies before you actually got to the forum....

why did you quote me as well because i never agreed nor disagreed to this becoming a sticky thread:confused:

[David S.]

Well said ggvfr. I know I have no real influence on the forum as I am a new member, but I would like to suggest that this one thread be made a sticky and all other code 3 threads be moved to the "code 3 creations" thread. That would save some space, do you think?

[wayno]

OK, before this degenerates to a slanging match... Personally, I'm happy not to be a sticky.. that came from elsewhere.

I'd just like to provide what help and information I can - given the requests on a number of Code 3 threads asking for exactly that...

Why not a seperate topic? Area?

Given the amount of cheap models appearing I'm sure there are going to be more...

Let's stop slinging and start creating...

Cheers
Garry

Unfortunately I doubt that will happen as that's a Biante staff decision. If a thread has a lot of interest it tends to stay at the top anyway. ;)
If we stickied one it would open the floodgates.
I expected to get attacked for posting, but I've had numerous pm's from members and was trying to put across the other side of the argument.
Sometimes I hate this job. :(

[wayno]

Well said ggvfr. I know I have no real influence on the forum as I am a new member, but I would like to suggest that this one thread be made a sticky and all other code 3 threads be moved to the "code 3 creations" thread. That would save some space, do you think?

Then people following a specific code 3 will complain about not being able to find what they want.
I feel this thread will stay near the top all by itself as the thread starter is working at a cracking pace.

[malscar]

I expected to get attacked for posting, but I've had numerous pm's from members and was trying to put across the other side of the argument.
Sometimes I hate this job. :(


wayno, don't get down about it. You guys do a great job. Unfortunately being piggy in the middle sometimes is a pain.

[Damage]

Good idea for a thread Garry, cool (and helpful) to see it step by step. No need for a sticky, as already said it will be like a sticky anyway, like most popular threads.

No need to take your bat and ball mate and no need for the mods to do anything as sometimes merging does more harm than good IMO.

Enough said I reckon. Keep the pics, info, questions and comments flowing.

[VE II]

Thanks for taking the time out to do this Garry

just a thought - is there anyway code 3's could be in kinda a seperate forum, like offtopic, but pure dedicated code 3?

[XTRALO]

Maybe I should have taken a poll first, or is that just a personal opinion?

I thought modding and Code 3's were an acceptable pastime on this forum - the rally car thread being a good example...

I don't care if this is moved to an off-topic area but I think it is still relevant to collecting, creating and expressing individuality....

Just like the 'nit picking' carried out every time a new model is released... it's all about ideas and the expression thereof, everyone is entitled to post if it's valid in its contribution...

...or maybe we're just not supposed to desecrate "Carlectables" creations....

How about I just take my bat and ball.....???

No-one is twisting anyones arm to read it, I personally skip threads I'm not interested in...

Mate, keep going on this topic it's a great help and I for one appreciate any help handed out by people like yourself.
Great work.

Cheers,

[Chev_350]

I love the shot of the tools, small screw drivers, tweezers other stuff for fine work....and then a great big hammer

[Damage]

lol, the good old hammer sandwich, the "persuader"

[david5]

isn't that like expecting an answer to why people hate Collingwood/Carlton, etc...:p ???

People hate Collingwood ? :confused::confused:

[mouse]

good work garry ,really good advice will be very helpfull.

[ggvfr]

Now, where was I before all the kerfuffle started....??!!

Stripping the doors:

This is pretty straight forward, the same for every door... almost like opening an oyster...

Insert a smallish (not too small or it will only mark the plastic skin..) flat blade screwdriver in near the 'hinge' and gently lift it a couple of mm... there should be a small 'crack/click' noise as the first glue mount lets go - remember, these panels have been frozen a couple of times...

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/117/toolsandtip sve031tv9.jpg

Then move to the back edge of the door, and repeat - gently... Yous hould hear the same noise again...

http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/610/toolsandtip sve032pp4.jpg

Is this where I insert a disclaimer of no responsibility for anything you break whilst emulating my technique??

Then I push it in a little and slowly work it around towards the door bottom - the third glue spot is along the bottom edge, near the middle.. if you're successful you'll know - everyone I've done has gone flying into the air when the glue 'pops'...

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/23/toolsandtips ve033ge6.jpg

...and there we have it a skinned door, repeat by the number of doors you have...

http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/5025/toolsandti psve034mg6.jpg

To date I haven't found the 'glass' to be glued on any doors I've done, this may vary by model or manufacturer..

You can clearly see the 'tits' on the inside where the skins were glued. It's the same on all 4 of these doors.

Next: Stripping out the Shell

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

This section is a multitude of all the fiddly pieces. I'll explain what works for me, others may have a different way of doing it - feel free to share... this, afterall, is a learning curve for all those interested...

Headlights:

http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/6942/toolsandti psve036iq4.jpg

On the VE the 'lens' comes away with the nose leaving the reflector glued to the shell. It's only held by 2 tabs and a small amount of glue..

http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/5778/toolsandti psve037vy0.jpg

A small gentle tweak under each tab will see it come away easily. Repeat for both sides...

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/735/toolsandtipsv e038if0.jpg

http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/5194/toolsandti psve039pu1.jpg

Next: Fuel filler caps (stripping the shell)

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

Fuel Filler caps:

http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/1233/toolsandti psve040cp9.jpg

Don't mind the condensation on the car... it's fresh from the freezer...

The small glued through tabs can be hard to find, here they are beside the screw tower...

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/209/toolsandtip sve042ur5.jpg

I grind away the excess plastic and paint inside the shell so I can see where to tap out the piece...

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/3341/toolsandti psve043yh6.jpg

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/8508/toolsandtips ve044yd3.jpg

Sorry for the poor picture... but the black rectangle is where to put a small screwdriver and, you guessed it, tap gently... The fuel piece should pop out. Occasionally they bend or break because there is often excess glue... these can be repaired easily.

Next: Dashboard and windscreen removal

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

Oh, here is the void in the shell where the filler blank was fitted on the VE....

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/4986/toolsandti psve046db6.jpg

[HrtTassieFan]

Thanks heaps for this Garry, Like many i'm a total novice when it comes to pulling a model apart but hopefully in the new year i'll attempt my own and your step by step guide will become a godsend. So thankyou i greatly appreciate it..

[ggvfr]

Under the wiper panel are a number of glued in studs that hold the wiper panel and the dashboard...

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/2793/toolsandti psve049cs2.jpg

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1807/toolsandti psve050po8.jpg

They're not really visible until you grind away a bit of the moulded bit and the paint... then I use a small punch (actually a broken 1mm drill bit in a collet) to tap gently on the front points..

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/728/toolsandtip sve053yt4.jpg

I find this better than trying to lever these bits off as there is a better chance of not snapping the locating pins (if glued too tight)... and presto, there is the wiper panel with lugs intact!

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/2029/toolsandti psve054ju1.jpg

Next: Windscreen and Dashboard

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

Now comes some more grinding...

These burred over lugs need to be ground back ... or drilled off, depending on your personal preference...

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8937/toolsandti psve047xr7.jpg

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/7549/toolsandti psve052zh9.jpg

Then gently lever up the front of the windscreen

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/7715/toolsandti psve055yv4.jpg

When it comes free, tilt it all the way back. On the VE the front bar of the roll cage is lightly glued to the inside (notch) of the screen. Just loosen this and it will flex out of the way.

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/7807/toolsandtips ve056km8.jpg

Now it just lifts off.

Cheers
Garry

[ggvfr]

Following on from the windscreen it's just a matter of doing the same for the dashboard as it was for the wiper panel...

And the result is...

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/8188/toolsandti psve058du3.jpg

So endeth the lesson for today...

Next time: Rear Window and parcel shelf

Cheers
Garry

[smokey_dj]

sorry garry dont mean to hi jack "thread of the year" :D but i think i may have a solution for the whole to sticky or not to sticky debate

i propose to the mods (and in no way and i trying to shove an opinion down anyones throat) the idea to make a new thread and sticky it and this new thread would contain the inks to all the code 3 threads or to just ones that have all the useful tips not mentioned elsewhere already

incase i lost you on that the idea its as simple as make a sticky of a thread that has links to all the code 3 threads that are valid and make it so no one can post in it its just purely a reference thread.

anyway ill leave it at that denied or accepted im not gonna say anymore on the subject as i can relate to what the mods will currently be going through how the PM list looking boys deleted 3 times over just today from full yet jokes

alrighty garry continue with the lessons as im a keen studen to take notes and eventually give this a go with such a step by step guide to go by top work

[Damage]

Yeah top stuff Garry, keep it comin'. I think the mods have said thier bit on this smokey and we'll see what happens. If it does fall down the list (which wouldn't be for long) anybody can be directed to a quick search.

[BILLFORD1]

I may be have 'jumped the gun' on Garry, if so, apologies, if not I can forward one useful tip in 'deconstructing'. Just completed totally stripping an 07 TCM XAGT in an hour or so, with no dramas to speak of. (Except removing the Minilite wheels from the axles, yet to do). One thing I was a bit concerned about, was the unwanted Red with White writing windscreen anti glare strip......Prepared several possible 'plans of action' such as polishing etc etc. As a 'testo' I tried my thumbnail which indeed scratched a bit of the colour off. Continued for around 5 mins by which time all traces of the original AGS had been removed without even the slightest scratch or blemish to the 'glass' I would assume this simple method will work in every case, as all the anti glare strips are put on in the exact same manner. (I intend doing one of a different colour/lettering on the code 3 I am doing).

[ggvfr]

...aaahh, back to it after a few days down the peninsula....

Rear window follows a very similar line to the Windscreen...

Grind/Drill burred over heads back, locate the glued in lugs...

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/5649/toolsandtips ve062ge7.jpg

Lever up the screen, and out it pops... sometimes a lug will break off a piece or remain in the diecast, this hasn't been a problem when reassembling, there's plenty of lugs to locate everything...

http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/496/toolsandtip sve063no3.jpg

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/6650/toolsandti psve064eu1.jpg

Repeat for the parcel shelf... out it comes...

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/3148/toolsandti psve065en1.jpg

Next: Body bits and pieces

Cheers
Garry

Hope everyone had a great xmas

[Andrew]

I have stripped back a small 1:43 truck and have sprayed the cabin with Tamiya primer, then a first coat of red from a spraycan. I have the orange peel effect immediately. Do I sand it back gently and reapply another coat? Have I sprayed it too closely? Do I leave it as is and use a cutting compound to remove the orange peel effect and polish it up?

[holden-all-the-way]

I have stripped back a small 1:43 truck and have sprayed the cabin with Tamiya primer, then a first coat of red from a spraycan. I have the orange peel effect immediately. Do I sand it back gently and reapply another coat? Have I sprayed it too closely? Do I leave it as is and use a cutting compound to remove the orange peel effect and polish it up?

The orange peel effect usally means its a good coat from my understanding... let it dry and it should try smooth without the orrange peel effect. Please correct me if im wrong. :)

regards holden-all-the-way

[malscar]

Too heavy and close Andrew. Also it is possible the can was cold. Normally you do a light coat, let it dry before another light coat. To begin with it does not look great.

To get rid of the orange peel, wait until the paint dries properly. Use some fine wet and dry with water and work on it. Maybe you should come over and I will show you.

[holden-all-the-way]

My bad - From my experience i had a orange peel coat and it driend out to be completly smooth a light coat. Mind you it wasnt a heavy orange peel coat it was a light coat.

[Andrew]

Thanks Mal and Holden-all-the-way....

Mal, I'll take you up on your offer when I can - once again you have come to my rescue!

[singer]

Thanks Mal and Holden-all-the-way....

Mal, I'll take you up on your offer when I can - once again you have come to my rescue!

Just don't drop it again;) as with the Skylines/Subaru's

[malscar]

He did not drop it. But I did work out what he did do. Lesson will be given:p

[Andrew]

Thanks Ken!!!! You remind me. Damn Biante 1:43 case fell off the wall. It will never go back up there again!

[singer]

Thanks Ken!!!! You remind me. Damn Biante 1:43 case fell off the wall. It will never go back up there again!

I knew that. Mal & I were having a chat when he dropped off the XY:)

Thanks indeed for the offer, but I've been told that Mal will be giving the lesson ;)

Perhaps you need a few more screws:p before placing it back on the Wall

[david5]

Perhaps you need a few more screws:p

You can never have too many :whip:

[Mark Wicks]

I don't wish to hijack this excellent How-To thread, but I've just posted a bit of a build diary for a Paul Weel AU Falcon from 2000. It's 1/43 based on an old Classics model.

Go to the "Code 3" page of my site http://www.wixy500.com

[hulk_vk_355]

nice thread ggvfr very helpful. would a vk group a pull appart in the same way? and any tips on pulling the wheels off and engine out?

[HDT337]

I don't wish to hijack this excellent How-To thread, but I've just posted a bit of a build diary for a Paul Weel AU Falcon from 2000. It's 1/43 based on an old Classics model.

Go to the "Code 3" page of my site http://www.wixy500.com

Hey Wicksy,

Have you made a start on that 1/43 Castrol Magnatec Ingall yet, I'm keen to see how it comes out.

HDT337

[Mark Wicks]

No mate :(

I'm in the process of getting ready to shift, so all my model stuff and the entire collection has been packed away and is in storage. It's probably going to be a while longer yet...

[modelrallysport]

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 9_01240003.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 9_01240006.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 9_01240005.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 9_01240004.jpg





Thought you Guys might like to see my Workshop and some of my code 3s
ALL my tools are dremel

[modelrallysport]

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 8_06110019.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 9_12080003.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 9_12080004.jpg
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff41/GDM200/200 9_12080006.jpg

some of my code 3 builds

[david5]

Nice work space mate, & clean too, well done.:cool:

[HDT337]

Thats a great work shop set up, amazingly, mine looked like that .....once....now I cant see any benches for stacks of boxes and about 7 code 3's on the go at the moment.

Your code 3's are really great, amazing detail, and great themes.

HDT337

[supa-roo]

what a great workshop, and great code 3's
well done

[kts350]

qucik question how do you guys get the small parts off like the bonnet pins and aerials without snapping the lugs off them, nearly got my current code 3 finished....

[david5]

Got my new magnifying lamp today, dremels coming soon. :D

[HDT337]

qucik question how do you guys get the small parts off like the bonnet pins and aerials without snapping the lugs off them, nearly got my current code 3 finished....

Sometimes its unavoidable, but if the hole goes right through, try to gently knock it through from the back, otherwise, sometimes try to get under it with a sharp hobby knife.

HDT337

[supa-roo]

I've got another question for the code 3 guru's, Ray or Graham :p

When you mask up the model for a second color, what sort of tape are you using, (masking tape or that blue stuff) and what are you using to clean the residue off, (metho or something else)

Thanks again guys

[spiderken17]

I've got another question for the code 3 guru's, Ray or Graham :p

When you mask up the model for a second color, what sort of tape are you using, (masking tape or that blue stuff) and what are you using to clean the residue off, (metho or something else)

Thanks again guys

I use automotive fine line, available in various widths. It is a plastic tape rather than crete paper (like masking tape) and leaves a fine sharp line because the paint doesn't bleed through the edges. It is available from most auto paint stores.
A very easy and harmless way to remove tape glue residue is get a new bit of masking tape and stick it on the residue. It usually commes away with the masking tape (it might take a couple of goes), its safer than using any form of solvent.

Just a tip when repainting the full car. It is sometimes easier to paint the car in reverse eg, on a falcon cobra, paint the blue on first then mask up the stripes and then paint the car white. There is a heap less masking this way. In fact there are very few cars i have painted stripes/graphics onto (full size or model) which i haven't done this way.
Hope this helps.

[HDT337]

I've got another question for the code 3 guru's, Ray or Graham :p

When you mask up the model for a second color, what sort of tape are you using, (masking tape or that blue stuff) and what are you using to clean the residue off, (metho or something else)

Thanks again guys

I use Tamiya Masking Tape, it comes in a roll in a plastic dispenser from the hobby shop. About $6 and comes in 2 sizes, 6 and 10mm.

It can be back masked with the standard masking tape.

HDT337

[smythy17]

isn't that like expecting an answer to why people hate Collingwood/Carlton, etc...:p ???

haha Yeah I know brchi17 i'm not creative either :D but i must admit i'm very intrigued by code 3 threads and i also like the idea of it having its own section. would save havin to search and search for them. hehe. :D

[HDT337]

haha Yeah I know brchi17 i'm not creative either :D but i must admit i'm very intrigued by code 3 threads and i also like the idea of it having its own section. would save havin to search and search for them. hehe. :D

Great idea, I'd like to see it have its own section as well. hint, hint, hint.

HDT337

[supa-roo]

Thanks guys
I'll have a look around today

[david5]

Magis faries left a dremel & a magnifying lamp at my house this morning:)

[rayman]

Magis faries left a dremel & a magnifying lamp at my house this morning:)
You been drinkin' ?

[david5]

You been drinkin' ?

Not this morning, however there was some intake last evening, involving a white bear & a chap called Johnny;)

[HQGTS74]

Quick question, not sure which Tamiya spray can i need to get to respray my black XR8? Obviously won't find "Silhouette", but what's the name of the glossy black i'd need to buy?:D

Thanks

Chris

[spiderken17]

Quick question, not sure which Tamiya spray can i need to get to respray my black XR8? Obviously won't find "Silhouette", but what's the name of the glossy black i'd need to buy?:D

Thanks

Chris

I would go to an automotive paint shop and they should be able to put some "Silhouette" paint in a pressure pack for you. This plus a can of automotive acrylic clear and you can paint you car in the actual Ford colour.

[HDT337]

Quick question, not sure which Tamiya spray can i need to get to respray my black XR8? Obviously won't find "Silhouette", but what's the name of the glossy black i'd need to buy?:D

Thanks

Chris

Some Auto One stores also make up and sell the pressure pack cans, all you need is the paint number, costs around $29-$35 a can, and is the larger can, not a small can. I have had many cans made up.

HDT337

[MOTIV8]

Hey Guys, Just wondering if anyone can help me with the removal of the wheels from the above mentioned car. Have been trying to search for it but cant find anything and am starting to get a bit frustrated so thought that I would put this up before I break them off......:(

[singer]

Hey Guys, Just wondering if anyone can help me with the removal of the wheels from the above mentioned car. Have been trying to search for it but cant find anything and am starting to get a bit frustrated so thought that I would put this up before I break them off......:(

Put the ENTIRE MODEL into the FREEZER then SLOWLY pry off the wheels with 2 Jewellers Screw Drivers. Each Section a BIT at a Time.

If needs be, REFREEZE, then do the above again.

Hope this Helps

[Holdennumber1]

Put the ENTIRE MODEL into the FREEZER then SLOWLY pry off the wheels with 2 Jewellers Screw Drivers. Each Section a BIT at a Time.

If needs be, REFREEZE, then do the above again.

Hope this Helps So are the wheels actually glued on diecasts? I always thought they clicked in and weren't held with glue.
Also, don't do this if you only want to change the wheels as the rest of the model will probably fall apart and break very easily.
Cheers,:)
Thomas

[HDT337]

Hey Guys, Just wondering if anyone can help me with the removal of the wheels from the above mentioned car. Have been trying to search for it but cant find anything and am starting to get a bit frustrated so thought that I would put this up before I break them off......:(

If its anything like the Biante Toranas, the wheels are pushed on a small knob, the easiest way I found to remove wheels like this is to spray a small amount of WD40 or simillar into the back of the wheel, and then using either a small flat blade screw driver, or a small set of sice cutter pliers, gently prise the wheel off. The WD is for lubrication.

HDT337

[david5]

If its anything like the Biante Toranas, the wheels are pushed on a small knob, the easiest way I found to remove wheels like this is to spray a small amount of WD40 or simillar into the back of the wheel, and then using either a small flat blade screw driver, or a small set of sice cutter pliers, gently prise the wheel off. The WD is for lubrication.

HDT337

HMMMM lubrication :D

[MOTIV8]

Thanks HDT337 I will give it a go but in the meantime as didnt want to 'force them', I bought some different ones (GMP) and have to screw them on but had to shorten the hubs on the donor car to fit them on. Hopefully will have the car finished by the end of the week...:rolleyes:

[HDT337]

Thanks HDT337 I will give it a go but in the meantime as didnt want to 'force them', I bought some different ones (GMP) and have to screw them on but had to shorten the hubs on the donor car to fit them on. Hopefully will have the car finished by the end of the week...:rolleyes:

Cool, post some pictures when you are done.

HDT337

[Bones]

Hi guys justs wondering if anyone can give me a hint on how to remove decals from the shell of the car and off the windows. Any help would be greatful.

[HRT-222]

G'day guys, i am wanting to do a code 3 of the tander/w.davison L&H 500 winner for 2009. Whats the best way to get rid of tanders name on the side window so i can put both drivers names on the window. I am going to use a tander 09 car obviously

Cheers Josh

[Damage]

Alcohol swabs for the windows (you'll be rubbing for a while but it works) can be obtained at pharmacies. Careful not to get the ones that leave a residue/film

Nail polish remover to remove livery (keep it well away from any plastic especially the windows) Woolies brand is nice and cheap. Test a small area 1st to make sure the basecoat is up for it.

[HDT337]

G'day guys, i am wanting to do a code 3 of the tander/w.davison L&H 500 winner for 2009. Whats the best way to get rid of tanders name on the side window so i can put both drivers names on the window. I am going to use a tander 09 car obviously

Cheers Josh

Whats the best way to get rid of Tanders name on the side window, I'd say sack him......

HDT337

[MOTIV8]

HDT337, Just to let you know that I finished the car by my deadline..........:shocked3: Am loading the photos up now so will post them very shortly. As this is my first ever Code 3, I am very happy with the result although will change a couple of things on my next one ;)

[brad]

has anyone had any issues with using thinners to remove the paint of plastic bits - where it looks like it's melting or messing around with the plastic?

[GLENN L]

paint thinners will melt plastic, try nail polish remover, try a small bit you dont see first.

[brad]

I've used that in the past with no real problems.... just wondering if I could save the rear bar.... maybe sand it so it's a bit smoother...

[malscar]

Sand it, then spray with model primer/filler, sand, spray, sand etc until it is back to the old shape. Can also use putty.

[Waynestr]

paint thinners will melt plastic, try nail polish remover, try a small bit you dont see first.

Use only NON ACETONE nail polish remover on paintwork. I did a code 3 on the Dick Johnson FJ, it took off all the stripes and numbers with only two wipes and left the cream paint perfect.

[castkrazy]

Excellent thread lots of great tips , and Thanks for the step by step dismantling Garry , all up great information for both repairs and code 3's :cool: .

Cheers Jim .