Repainting a model

[15247]

I want to repaint a model in another colour. Has anyone done this before and could give me a few tips on doing it. ie; what type of paint did you use, did you pull the car apart etc etc.

[VXfan]

I have attempted 1 repaint so far but I wasn't happy with it and that serves me right as I cut corners galore!I didn't remove the old paint which u should do with paint stripper.I didn't use any primer paint either.I pulled my model apart completely,then sprayed a gold undercoat followed by a deep red top coat which gave it a candy-apple red look.
If done properly,i.e. stripped,light sand with very fine sandpaper,primer then a couple of thin coats of chosen colour,my model would look a heck of a lot better.
I used automotive spray paint which u can get at any hardware store.
Here's my 'effort' any way
http://community.webshots.com/photo/507321493/1518 024582080061067EeQrLU
I am going to have another crack at repainting soon and will let u know how I go.I have a UT BMW Z3 Coupe in burgundy red.I personally hate this colour as it looks way too boring.Havent decided what colour yet but will definitely be something a loot funkier!:)
Hope my rambling post helps u a little.If anyone else here has done a proper job at repainting,please feel free to post away!
Cheers,
Tony.

[15247]

G'Day VXfan,
thanks for the help. How hard is it to pull the car apart?And then put it back together. I want to repaint the 2005 historic charger to a blue colour.Im not real fussed about the engine bay and in the doors, as the car will only be on display in a cabinet and not to open and close dooors etc

[VXfan]

G'Day VXfan,
thanks for the help. How hard is it to pull the car apart?And then put it back together. I want to repaint the 2005 historic charger to a blue colour.Im not real fussed about the engine bay and in the doors, as the car will only be on display in a cabinet and not to open and close dooors etc
I couldn't tell you how easy/hard it is to pull apart an Autoart 1/18 I 'm afraid.The model I changed was a 1/24 Jada Initial D which was pretty simple.
The only tricky part is the glued areas like the windows and light fittings,I used a thin flat head screwdriver to carefully prise the parts away from the glue but there is probably a better tool for the job.Be very careful with these parts though!!
Hope this helps in some way,keep us informed of ur progress!
Cheers,
Tony.

[Leigh]

There are some older threads on here about just this...try a search for

"1 of 1 model cars" or something

[GRPIII]

heres the thread your after, plenty of reading in here.
http://forums.biante.com.au/showthread.php?t=836&highlight=spicy+orange
you wont need to strip a road car as the paint is a good enough base, but if you have race car you will need to strip it as the signwriting usally leaves an etch mark.

[Martin Thomas]

the oven cleaner in the sealed bag method for removing the paint is the one I found to be the best.

[Nick Short]

I've got models I half stripped with the idea of repainting them (UT's Porsche GT1 and a Kyosho Lancia Rally 037) but eventually decided it would look terrible if I did it! The Kyosho seems to actually be white plastic bodied with no paint so could be much simpler - it was just the finish I was concerned about. I doubt the red street version of the 037 Evo 2 will ever be modelled, so I have to do it myself in the end....

[15247]

G'Day Nick,
I have the 2005 biante historic charger that i want to paint blue. I doubt wether Biante or CC will be doing one in blue so im going to have a go at it. I pulled the car apart yesterday. It was easier than i thought, but once ive painted it i hope i remember how it all goes back together. I put the pieces in separtate boxes. Like all the door bits in one box, all the engine boy in another etc etc.
Now i just have to find a paint shop that will mix the colour i need and put it in a spray can. Does anyone know who will do that in sydneys western suburbs?

[GRPIII]

G'Day Nick,
I have the 2005 biante historic charger that i want to paint blue. I doubt wether Biante or CC will be doing one in blue so im going to have a go at it. I pulled the car apart yesterday. It was easier than i thought, but once ive painted it i hope i remember how it all goes back together. I put the pieces in separtate boxes. Like all the door bits in one box, all the engine boy in another etc etc.
Now i just have to find a paint shop that will mix the colour i need and put it in a spray can. Does anyone know who will do that in sydneys western suburbs?
how far out in western sydney you at?
have painted a few models for a few members here before.

[15247]

G'Day, GRPIII,
Im at Rooty Hill. How much would you charge to paint it for me? The car is in pieces and im awaiting the decals from Patto. I was going to have a go painting it myself but, if the price is right i might consider someone else doing it.

[spuddamonaro]

I as well am interested in a price to GRPIII, iv been dreaming of painting the VX SS police car, quicksilver to match my brothers 1:1. i am in Seven Hills, and as well for the right price i am willing to put it in someone elses more capable hands.

Let us know

Cheers

Peter

[BILLFORD1]

I seem to remember, If still in business, that there's a chain of 1-1 Auto Paint places in Sydney area, forgotten their name now but will be in the Phone book, who will mix ANY colour on the planet & put it in a spray can for around $20 I think. Also however, I would think that for a 1/18 the end result would be WAY better if painted with an Airbrush rather than a can although I have used both methods in the past. (Also depends on if it is Metallic/Base coat & Clear etc). Pre painting Preparation is the key...

[inter]

What is the best airbrush to use? i am looking to buy one with little or no maintanace apart from cleaning.

Also does any one know costs?

regars Inter

[the_goldie]

Can only applaud GRPIII's efforts I had a white VT Clubsport re-painted in Phantom Mica to match my car.

http://www21.brinkster.com/cambo/images/modelCars/ 2000VTSIIClubsport18.jpg

[BILLFORD1]

the oven cleaner in the sealed bag method for removing the paint is the one I found to be the best. I will second that..Can I say "Easy Off" oven cleaner is the best paint stripper money can buy ?? It will not harm anything except 'clear', (windows, light lenses etc), & of course, chrome...I have used it on Diecast & several Styrene kit bodies & parts when rebuilding something as something else...I don't usually worry about the plastic bag, just lay out on several sheets of newspaper & give parts a good frosting !! Some Lacquer paintjobs may need a couple of goes, washing off between. Works a treat !! :)

[BILLFORD1]

What is the best airbrush to use? i am looking to buy one with little or no maintanace apart from cleaning.

Also does any one know costs?

regars Inter Not up to date on costs inter but like everything else, varies from peanuts to caviar !! I have a Paashe brush that I hardly ever use, a couple of Testors etc etc. However 9 times out of 10 I use either my trusty old Revell "bottom of the line" or indeed a clone of that which I bought from Marlowes in WA before it was taken over by SCA. From memory that cost about $15. As long as your paint is mixed correctly & right consistency, (like milk, all the manuals say), a bit of practice & you're away. Good trick to get your 'action' correct, make sure you aren't too close etc, is to paint a couple sheets of card first...The effort is worth it as Airbrush gives better finish due to finer spray/better coverage than a can...:)

[BILLFORD1]

Need to add to previous as I would not have fitted it in...The cheaper brushes these days will do just as good a job, it depends on the operator. Also, virtually Zero maintenance. Cleaning is simple as putting some Turps, Lacquer thinners, Airbrush Thinner or Water, depending on type of Paint, in the jar, spraying it out onto old newspaper & that's about it. I usually also pull the 'Pickup tube' off from the lid attachment & give it a good go with thin wire & cleaner and double check the Fluid nozzle to ensure totally clean as blockages may occur but generally if 'no crap/lumps etc in paint' will not be a problem. I also believe that Airbrushes similar to what I am talking about, are available from Hobby/Craft joints like 'Spotlight' etc.

[inter]

Not up to date on costs inter but like everything else, varies from peanuts to caviar !! I have a Paashe brush that I hardly ever use, a couple of Testors etc etc. However 9 times out of 10 I use either my trusty old Revell "bottom of the line" or indeed a clone of that which I bought from Marlowes in WA before it was taken over by SCA. From memory that cost about $15. As long as your paint is mixed correctly & right consistency, (like milk, all the manuals say), a bit of practice & you're away. Good trick to get your 'action' correct, make sure you aren't too close etc, is to paint a couple sheets of card first...The effort is worth it as Airbrush gives better finish due to finer spray/better coverage than a can...:)



Thanks forthat billford1, what compressor do you use?


inter